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Author Topic: Blowing Fuses  (Read 300 times)
RMCN
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« on: May 14, 2019, 12:22:26 pm »

I followed this method.

ďThat being said, there is an easier way for simple situations (day and lake boaters, etc) :

There is an easier way for guys with single V's on lakes and such. You just need more reserve capacity. Just add a battery in parallel (pos to pos, neg to neg) with what you have now. Add a simple on/off batt switch on the positive cable between the batts. Put all your loads that drain a batt when you fish or party: baitwell, stereo, lights, etc. on this batt with a fuse block.  Put the switch "on" when you leave the dock so the batt charges when running along with the engine batt. If you stop to fish or party, click the batt switch "off" so they are separated. When you start back up, click it "on" so it charges again. Doing it this way, you are a "manual combiner/isolator" yourself. The downside to this system is if you forget your "on and off" responsibilities, then you could be dead in the water - literally. 

This involves buying 3 short batt cables, a simple on/off batt switch like this:



and a batt box/tray. Buy the same batt you have now - don't mix models and types. Make it a bulletproof system by replacing all your batts with Sears or Odyssey AGM.Ē

However, as soon as I turn the key on, not started, just to the on position itís blowing my inline fuses to my blue sea fuse panel.

Any ideas?
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Glen
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« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2019, 12:33:14 pm »

Sounds like something is reversedÖ Iíve done the exact same thing on 2 Boats and had no problems connecting a battery in and out like thisÖJust remember that the new battery is connected in parallel meaning positive to positive , negative to negative,  and then the battery switch can interrupt the new batteryís positive cable. Itís the same way that you connect jumper cables if you were trying to jumpstart the boat for another battery.
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RMCN
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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2019, 01:11:59 pm »

I do have a battery switch that everything is run through. I connected all of the accessories power, engine power to the common post and ran a positive cable out to each battery from the 1 and 2 terminals. Iím crunched for time as Iím taking a trip to Louisiana this weekend. Iím just going to separate the systems for now. I have an onboard charger that will charge my accessory battery in the evenings.
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RMCN
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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2019, 04:03:04 pm »

Ok, Iím getting closer.

I took the relay that has thicker RED, PURPLE wires and thinner Green and Black wires off my fuse block and that fuse is not blowing any longer. However I have an accessory power wire that was wired straight to it through its own power bar setup and it is still blowing that fuse.

Is it the relay? Or is it the wiring to and from the battery? What size fuse should it be?
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RMCN
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« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2019, 04:05:57 pm »

It ran fine yesterday without both power wire fuses, I didnít have any accessories everything else worked. but now the boat wonít start, the fuel pump comes on but no beep and it wonít turn over
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RMCN
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« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2019, 05:03:19 pm »

Iíve eliminated the accessory/ignition relay from the equation. I have the motor setup on one battery and the blue sea fuse block setup on the other and everything is working just fine. When I get back from Louisiana Iíll try and run it the original way but right now Iím in a time crunch and I just need the s*** working.
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