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Author Topic: Removing Driveshaft Housing  (Read 4468 times)
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Posts: 47

« on: April 15, 2018, 02:32:36 pm »

I received a lot of great information from this forum and figure that I should repay in kind.
There are a number of stainless bolts which thread directly into Aluminum on the Verado. The direct contact between these two metals often results in the stainless fastened being seized in place by the corroding aluminum.
Many of us with older Verados have performed the Poppet Valve service, to find that one or both of the bolts that need to be removed are corroded in place and break rather than come out.
Once the bolt breaks and attempts at extraction fail, you will need to remove the Driveshaft Housing to replace the exhaust tube in which the poppet valve resides.
The other day, I found myself in a good mood as I was following the directions of another VC contributor in unbolting the driveshaft housing on my 2006 275hp.
All the bolts and nuts did come out, some caked in aluminum powder - yet the housing refused to drop.
There are two "parting notches" in the mid-section adapter plate [two aft ] and one forward, at the single retaining screw at the front. Using a flat tip screw driver one may be able to get the housing to start moving - I was not so lucky.
What the manual does not tell you is that the 10 studs which align and clamp the housing have a ground shoulder which is precision fit into the housing.
As the aluminum corrodes, some of these pins become seized. The normal tilting of the engine tends to concentrate the corrosion process at the front of the engine where there is insufficient space for any prying tools.
A local mechanic dropped by and told me that he would have to use a heavy mallet to beat on the front fin of the housing but it may crack.
I followed a different process with less risk.
Buy yourself a MAP gas canister and torch head - cheaper to buy as a kit than individual components. Do not waste your time and money on Propane.
Prepare a 2x4 or 2x2 board about 24" long
1: tap on the side of each retaining stud with a plastic hammer of use a piece of wood and regular hammer - do not pound it, you want to see the threaded stud
    wiggle, proving that it is not embedded in corrosion residue.
2: drive a flat blade screw driver into each parting slot, creating separation force - do not penetrate more that 3/8 - 1/2" to avoid damage to mating surfaces.
3: Heat the aluminum around the seized studs. If the stud is dull red after removing the flame, you are good.
4: Immediately after heating, rapidly tap the seized studs as in step 1.
5: re-heat the studs
6: if you have a helper, have them place the 2x4 board on end, into the poppet valve opening in the drive shaft housing and drive it down with a few hammer blows. Position the wood as vertical as possible so you are driving the force down, not sideways into the housing. If you are working alone, move quickly.
You can also impart some lighter blows to the front section of the housing, over the bulges which contain the threaded holes for chap screws. The goal is to deliver a series of vibration inducing blows, not to crack the housing.
7: repat 1-6 if neccessary.
You will begin to see a gap begin to open at the front of the housing, once the corrosion seal is fractured. Resist the temptation to drive screw drivers into the gap. Spray some penetrating lubricant and repeat the process.
I recommend keeping a nut on one of the studs to prevent housing from doping to the ground.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2018, 02:59:38 pm by FishHunt » Logged

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Location: Fort Lauderdale area
Posts: 11334

« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2018, 02:43:51 pm »

Thank you! Remember now you can attach pictures if you want

Welcome! Please search First, no problem is really new, also motor year and hours when posting
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Location: So FL
Posts: 2

« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2020, 08:54:07 pm »

Thank you for this write up! In the middle of trying to get my midsection off for a pesky oil leak at the drain plug. Gonna hit it with the torch tomorrow.
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