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January 15, 2019, 08:28:54 pm *
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 on: Today at 07:13:52 pm 
Started by Citiesfisher - Last post by Citiesfisher
I donít have anything to read the codes. I see the overheat alarm come up on the smart gauge. Interestingly Iíve had the boat at 2 big name repair shops and neither one was able to pull any codes off the motor. As mentioned before first shop was only able to get the over heating to go off just once and this was after 2 lake runs. Impeller and entire housing unit was changed, along with poppet valve. Take it home first run on the lake overheat. Take it back to shop they go through everything lake test multiple times. All is good. I say it canít be. Shop takes me out we run it hard for 15 mins nothing. Now temps did climb to 180 and just a tad higher but not what I was seeing. Take it home. Go out next day first run overheat alarm and motor shuts down into guardian mode. Let motor cool off try again. Overheat and overheat every time after. Take home to go local shop buy new thermostat for $170 as last resort. Install take to lake, every run overheat. Take to another shop. Bring invoice from previous shop of all that had been performed. They check it work, check all lines to make sure to obstructions. All is good and no overheat on their end. So in a few months here I will try the sensor temp which I doubt is the issue but for $35 itís worth a shot before I get rid of motor.

 on: Today at 06:47:18 pm 
Started by homesite - Last post by Fishin100
just by googling it, it looks like it comes as part of the ignition switch kit.

 on: Today at 02:29:28 pm 
Started by Windham14 - Last post by Windham14
Sorry, this can be deleted. I finally searched a different way on Google and found several posts through the years on here that say it's ok to tape the torpedo if not using the Mercury muffs and blocker. Feel free to leave it up as a refresher if you want. Thanks

 on: Today at 02:19:04 pm 
Started by Windham14 - Last post by Windham14
I know there is device you can buy to cover the intake holes that are on the "bullet" part of the lower unit when starting Vrods out of the water on the muffs. My question is, for a short startup of maybe 4-5 minutes could I tape those holes and use the muffs and be ok? My local dealers have "lost" their covers and I have modified my steering lines and added an inline cooler and want to start one motor in the driveway so I can bleed the system and get the level right. I know this probably is ideal but will it work ok? Thanks for any advise

 on: January 14, 2019, 11:03:01 pm 
Started by Florida Paul - Last post by Florida Paul
Does anyone have source for covers for new twin motors being installed this week. Mercury wants $300 a pc. Looking for alternatives. Tx

 on: January 14, 2019, 06:44:21 pm 
Started by manation - Last post by Windham14
How cold is the water you boat in when you see the temp variations?  The poppet is most likely not the issue.

More likely scenario:

The coolant temp sensor is downstream of the thermostat.
The thermostat actually makes a good seal preventing any/most flow from the block to the temp sensor when it is closed.
As the motor runs in very cold water the temp goes down to the point where the thermostat closes.
The temp sensor then shows a low temp.
The water holding up in the block heats up very quickly due to no/low flow through the thermostat.
When the thermostat finally opens, the hot water then contacts the temp sensor and causes the temp to go up.
As the hot water is replaced by cooler water in the block the temp sensor comes down and Tstat shuts.
Cycle continues over and over.

Usually this occurs in colder water.  In LA I have only seen this temp swing in the cold, cold winter (for LA).  Could imagine a very common occurrence in the north.

Recently I have seen some posts on another web site where techs are drilling small holes in the thermostat to provide flow to the temp sensor all the time which has alleviated the temp swings.  Interesting thought right there.

I replaced my T- stats, poppet valves, water pumps, etc and get this silly situation in cold water. I never get an alarm and the motors run perfectly so I ignore it when the water is cold. Can you elaborate or get some pics of how they are drilling them? I would be willing to give it a shot just to test it.

 on: January 14, 2019, 06:24:27 pm 
Started by homesite - Last post by homesite
I have had my boat for 10 years now and have decided to freshen up everything.

Does anyone know where I can get replacement face covers for the ignition switches? I am looking for the face plate with the words on it.


 on: January 14, 2019, 06:19:57 pm 
Started by Citiesfisher - Last post by Fishin100
Just throwing this out there. But are you able to get the fault codes when you get the beeps? You must have something to read it because you are able to get temps.

Also, computer has memory, has it ever been put on the computer to read the fault code history. It can tell you if the overheats were happening before you bought the boat and how often and also if any other fault codes went along with previous overheat alarms.

I had some overheat alarms when my versado muffs didnít cover the secondary water intake while flushing the engine.

 on: January 14, 2019, 12:41:01 pm 
Started by Citiesfisher - Last post by Citiesfisher
I have not installed yet being that it is winter here. I highly doubt that is the problem though as the temp increases with the rpm until it eventually overheats, but itís worth a shot at $35 before getting rid of motor. As previous poster mentioned sounds like itís a gasket issue to me.

You mind me asking what year and how many hours on your motor?

 on: January 13, 2019, 12:44:47 pm 
Started by Hullin - Last post by Hullin
WTB low hour 2017 or 2018 twin Verado 300s or 350s with 25"shafts.

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