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 1 
 on: April 02, 2020, 08:26:38 pm 
Started by kb5050 - Last post by kb5050
Ok FIXED. Decided to change filters on the engine again, went to local marina asked for Mercury red castle fuel filter, guy asks opti or verado?  I said verado, he gives me two filters, I get home, and they're maroon color, I put them in, motors run perfect.  Red filters I took out still looked new. Don't know the difference, but there is a difference.

 2 
 on: April 02, 2020, 04:19:03 pm 
Started by Sprint300 - Last post by Sprint300
Hi

My name is christophe and with my children we are going to renovate a very small Jeanneau sprint 300

This boat was built by jeanneau in the 1980s

To share with you I suggest you watch our YouTube channel

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCD258bKFTA5UCayvI_I4iyw

Have a nice day and #stayathome

Best regards

 3 
 on: April 02, 2020, 03:18:36 pm 
Started by kb5050 - Last post by kb5050
Got some clear tubing, tee d in a vacuum gauge,  hooked up to stb motor and watched as switch/low pressure pump cycled, looked ok.  Hooked electric pump to outlet of onboard filter, with clear hose and gauge, ran pump 45 minutes returning fuel to tank. Line showed trail of bubbles, hooked direct to fuel line from tank, hose was clear, no bubbles. I thought 👍👍. Hooked up motors direct to tank without onboard filters, ran on plane about 1 mi. Motors stumble down, ck eng 2, ck eng 1.  Cycle key on/off.  Engines run again. Disconnect stb from boat tank, feed  fuel from 5gal tank on deck, get on plane 1/2-3/4 mile motors stumble down again ck eng 1, ck eng 2.   I had clear line and a squeeze bulb on the stb motor, line was full,bulb firm, but engine stumbled and quit...
Makes no sense....

 4 
 on: April 01, 2020, 01:34:36 pm 
Started by kb5050 - Last post by thunderstruck
Run the motors from fuel cans with fresh fuel. Not from the onboard tank see if they run better. Let us know how it goes.

 5 
 on: April 01, 2020, 10:34:47 am 
Started by kb5050 - Last post by kb5050
Boat: 30' phantom.CC Fresh rehab, 2x 08' 275's 600 hrs, HD gearcases  bought engines from GSA. Engine height propshaft 4" below bottom. Props are 15x28 4b round ear herrings with vent holes. 
On initial startup After rehab, port engine wouldn't stay running, found bad float switch
Changed out, ran fine, did a weekend trip on the st.johns ran good but eventually clogged filters in boat, anticipated because of the time the boat had sat before I got it. Just before putting it on the trailer got a check engine 2 alarm. Got home, checked red top filter on motor, clean, dumped canister, nothing but clean fuel.
Replaced onboard filters and filled tank. 
Next use, get on plane, runs 1/2 to 3 miles, 1 or both engines stumble, pull back to low rpm, check engine 1or 2 of both come on, 1 or both run out of fuel, cycle key a couple times engines pick up fuel and run again.
Items checked/replaced;  fuel tank vent, tank pickups removed checked for cracks/air leaks, trimmed 1/4" off bottom and mitered to insure flow, (no check valves) replaced all the new fuel lines I had just installed ,3/8" , changed filters several times never finding any water/debris since initial trip. Changed lift pumps both motors, changed the float switch on the other motor, checked rail pressure, checked vent canister, never any fuel at shrader valve. 
Water tested after each item checked or replaced. Same result every time,  will idle/low rpm all day , get on plane, engines starve for fuel, check engine light 1or both comes on, 1or both shutdown, cycle key a couple times they pickup fuel and run.   
Any help/ideas would be appreciated

 6 
 on: March 25, 2020, 07:38:18 pm 
Started by geaux001 - Last post by jdpelloquin
Thanks guys cheap way to confirm my suspicion. Out of nowhere the motor would try to start and key was in "on" position, never went to start position. It rained the day before and must have gotten the key switch wet. Took it off, blew it with air compressor, let it dry overnight and reinstalled it. Works like new now. Will make shift a cover and probably buy a new one since this is the original from 2007 and keep it as as a backup bc I know I will get caught out fishing in the rain again.

2007 Laguna Bay Boat 21' w/2007 Verado 150hp

 7 
 on: March 24, 2020, 11:41:28 pm 
Started by rapnjar - Last post by johnmcbridehouston
I know this will probably sound too simple but have you checked the thermostat? it sits after the block and therefore if it is closed/blocked the sensor would see a high block pressure (pressure = resistance to flow) you will still see a good flow at the pee hole and the FSM and air inlet water cooling would work as normal as they take off before the block and have different return flows. Might be worth checking.

John

 8 
 on: March 23, 2020, 11:12:02 am 
Started by Barroosa@gmail.com - Last post by thunderstruck
Keep us updated.  Got to be something simple.

 9 
 on: March 23, 2020, 11:11:24 am 
Started by Barroosa@gmail.com - Last post by thunderstruck
I scanned the 6 cylinder dressed powerhead removal procedure for nuts and bolts holding the PH to the adapter plate in order of removal:

2 screws by the dump fitting on the stbd side
2 front screws behind the shift actuator
2 aft nuts under the valve cover
(XX) nuts from the studs holding the powerhead to the adapter plate

don't know about the 4 cylinder. 



 10 
 on: March 23, 2020, 08:54:48 am 
Started by Barroosa@gmail.com - Last post by thunderstruck
Does the service manual have a step by step procedure for removing a dressed powerhead??

The powerhead will come off if you have all the bolts/nuts removed.  There won't be any non-screw connections between the powerhead and the adapter plate.

The 6 cylinder service manual had a step by step procedure (51 steps).  I made a couple of mistakes but the process went as the procedure described.  My post detailing doing the same job on a 6 cylinder is in the contributor section.

 

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